![]() I'd love to go at it with the appropriate rods and try to get some life back into it. So, I have no qualms about working on the Peter Wright, as it's got almost the same rebound properties as a random hunk of metal right now. And, I have a Peter Wright, with not only chipped/mushroomed edges, it's just dead as a door nail - has nowhere near as good a rebound as my Mousehole, and neither are as good as this Fisher. In any case, if I ever try it, I'll do a lot of research first, and it's a ways off.Īlso, I have a Mousehole with chipped edges I'd like to repair, although I can live with it the way it is if I think it will be too difficult. Rather, the proper pre-heating, maintaining temp, post-heating, etc. I'm no stranger to welding, of most different types, so the actual laying of the bead doesn't phase me. But, I imagine I'll undertake it one day, if I think I'm able. I plan on using it just like it is for quite a while to come - I have projects much more pressing than the repair of that face. Very cool to know what it is I've got.Ĭan you enlighten me as to how the large step and 45 on the step were useful for plow sharpening/making? If you look about middle of the page there is an anvil that looks very much like this one.Thanks njanvilman. Here is the only info I've found online that made me think it is a fisher. If there are no numbers on the side it is also probably an American forged anvil. If there are numbers close together not separated by a space it is probably an American forged anvil and the number is the actual weight. Now add them all up and you get the weight of 112 + 56 +3 = 171, the weight of the anvil. The last number is actually pounds so in this example 3 pounds. The second number is quarter hundred weights so a quarter hundred weight is 28 pounds. So the first number is the hundred weight number. That is a 100 weight marking but does not designate 100 pounds, it is 112 pounds. Is the "20" the only marking? Unusually on old anvils there are 3 numbers on one side like 1 2 3. It is a wrought anvil because you can see where the steel plate is forge welded on. I have never seen an anvil with hold downs forged into the base. I had one myself, a very nice anvil- wish Id have kept it. They were made in Columbus Ohio at the Columbus Forge and Iron Company. :-) Looks like Trenton: snip Contrary to what it would seem, Trenton anvils were not made in New Jersey as were the Fisher anvils in Trenton N.J. Let me know if I can help looks to be in good shape. Any idea on age or weight keramikos, 2 years ago Hi, pjnelson1. If it has no weight markings you can probably put it on a bathroom scale. I would value this anvil between $3.00 and $5.00 per pound. A 3 legged stand is always stable, like a milking stool. I would modify the stand to make it a 3 legged stand with the third leg under the horn and angle them all out about 17 degrees. The 2 I have from the 50s dont have dates, and 1 has 150, the other 15 for the weight. Joshs book on Eagle anvils 'Fisher & Norris ' is a spectacular read and a great addition to the blacksmith library. If there are no numbers on the side it is also probably an American forged anvil. A lot of the markings on the anvils seemed to be random and for a given time frame. The length of the base is13.75', not including the mounting tabs on each end, which brings the total length to18'. It is 14' tall, and 12.5' wide at the base. Posted JI'm looking for help in determining the weight of a Fisher anvil. It is a wrought anvil because you can see where the steel plate is forge welded on. 1 Start new topic PeterDE4 Members 35 LocationNewark, DE.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |